Daniela’s scrapbook, Antonio’s Aglianico.

Cantina Giardino came together in 2003 as an idealistic collective of friends looking to restore old vineyards of indigenous grapes in their region of Campania, Italy threatened by industrial winemaking. Headed now by Daniela and Antonio de Gruttola, they farm about six hectares of Aglianico, a hearty and intense red grape from which Antonio coaxes power and subtlety; plus Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, and Coda di Volpe: electric mineral and vocal white grapes that in this family winery carry wild tropical fruit signatures and finish with assertive, blistering spice. The farming is done by hand and the cellar work is considered and slow, where long skin macerations for both red and whites are common in a combination of local wood casks and clay anforas. The earth around their hometown of Ariano Irpino is volcanic and rich in minerals, so to celebrate these complex terroirs Daniela uses a clay amphora she made from the soil in the vineyards for a special wine. Each vintage the most suitable grapes are chosen to age with their skins for six months in this vessel resulting in the cuvée Sophia, an orange wine that is arguably the skeleton key to Cantina Giardino.

This producer has been totally central to my developing understanding of natural wine. Theirs were the first serious wines that hooked me. The reds taste classic and comforting, but there’s a finesse and energy to them seldom found in the rusticity of Aglianico. The whites this year have a glowing freshness and an overwhelming savory, herbal quality. Drinking them sometimes you wonder if what you’re tasting really is wine in the most exciting way. From what my colleagues Emily and Mac who visited the cantina last year told me, the Grutollas are incredibly warm, gracious, and thoughtful, which shines through in each of their wines. They are truly unique and all I want to drink right now.

Jackson

If you’d like to order any bottles, give us a call at (773.360.8365) or email us with your request. Here’s what is available:

Vino Rosato Frizzante 2018 ($38). Aglianico rosé pet nat.

Vino Bianco Frizzante Metodo Olimpia 2018 ($38). Coda di Volpe & Greco di Tufo pet nat. (out)

Adam 2018 ($42). Greco di Tufo fermented with skins for 8 days.

Paski 2018 ($38) (out) , Paski 2018 MAGNUM ($87). Coda di Volpe fermented with skins for 4 days.

Gaia 2018 ($42) (out), Gaia 2018 MAGNUM ($116). Fiano fermented with skins for 2 days.

Primoaprile 2018 ($42). Greco Musc fermented with skins for 6 days.

Sophia 2018 ($39) (out), Sophia 2018 MAGNUM ($102). Greco di Tufo fermented in local anfora with skins for 6 months.

Chianzano 2018 ($42). Greco di Tufo & Coda di Volpe fermented with skins for 6 days. (out)

T’ara’ra 2018 ($39), T’ara’ra 2018 MAGNUM ($102). Greco di Tufo fermented with the skins for 2 days.

Tu Tu 2018 MAGNUM ($116). Fiano fermented with the skins for 4 days.

Volpe Rosa 2018 MAGNUM ($92). Coda di Volpe Rosa fermented with the skins for 2 days.

Le Fole 2017 ($42) Aglianico fermented with skins for 1 month. (out)

Drogone 2014 ($39), Drogone 2015 ($45) Aglianico fermented with skins for 2 months. (out)

Nude 2010 ($50). 100 year + old vines of Aglianico fermented with skins for 3 months. (out)