Les Maisons Brûlées


I wanted to write about Maison Brûlées because I was completely unfamiliar with the wines prior to their arrival last week. Mac, who runs the distributor El Rancho, recently started working with Varda, an upstart import started by our friend Travis Montague, and the Maison Brûlées wines arrived in Chicago’s first Varda delivery. Exciting! There’s a lovely fairy tale-ish story about how this Alsatian couple took over the domaine from some natural wine originals; and our friend Harris at Psychic Wines in LA tells that story beautifully:
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"Located in the Cher Valley, the property is run by Paul and Corinne Gillet, who took over the estate from Michel and Beatrice Augé in 2013. Paul and Corinne’s roots are in Alsace, however for the decade prior to taking over Maison Brûlées the couple traveled, working on various projects that focused on their ability to innovate with the materials around them. Natural hosts, Paul and Corinne moved from France after running an epicerie full of specialty items and wine, to Argentina where they did pop ups and subsequently opened a French-bistro. When they moved back to France it was with the intention of making wine, and they followed this new point of interest to the Loire where Paul began to work under Michel. It wasn’t with the intention of inheriting Maison Brûlées that Michel began this internship, at this point it was only to learn the biodynamic methods they employed, and he left the property after some time in order to go back to his home in Alsace and study under Bruno Schueller. Yet when Michel decided to retire and proposed the opportunity for the Gillet's to take over the estate, they accepted and returned with their mind set on making the Loire their new home. This sort of torch passing is one that proves the power of terrain. The estate of Maison Brûlées, although first harnessed by Michel and Beatrice, has maintained its own idiosyncratic qualities that now express themselves differently after being placed in a new set of hands. Following several years producing the Maison Brûlées wines, Paul and Corinne have set their own standards. Known for picking grapes in their maturity, they highlight the dark red fruit of the Loire and its potential for somewhat brooding wines that still sparkle with bright, underlying acidity. Paul and Corinne continue to host as well, with an open table during harvest known to feature the charcuterie and meat dishes that harken back to their Alsatian roots." - Harris Bauer
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Having tasted the new wines, Paul and Corrine seem to be taking things along at the pace that had been set by the old guard, out of respect for the traditions put in place by Michel Augé, but also because they feel that it’s the way the wines should be made to express the unique soils and aspects of this special, now emblematic terrain favored by some of our most beloved producers.

The wines taste like they’re teetering on the edge of what one would expect of Loire classics, but with an unmistakable flare despite their lush ripeness. Érèbe is zippy but maintains its deep savory quality you’d expect from a dark Malbec and Cab Franc blend. The whites are made from Sauvignon Blanc and couldn’t be more different from one another. Silène is their mineral and to be frank, electric bottling. Poussière de Lune is made from old vine Sauvignon and Menu Pineau and tastes like fancy wine, rich and full and assertive in its presence with each gulp. Ça Me is nearly orange, nectary and fruity but with some bitterness thrown in for good measure. These wines provide a nice sense of stability and are a welcome companion to writing an email.

DJ

Let us know if you would like to order any bottles by giving us a call at (773) 360-8365 or by emailing us with your request.


Here’s what is in stock:

Silène 2018 (Sauvignon Blanc) $33
Poussière de Lune 2017 (Sauvignon Blanc, Menu Pineau) $38
Ça Me 2018 (Sauvignon Blanc) $35
Érèbe 2017 (Malbec, Cabernet Franc) $33

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Bradford Taylor