Tasting the true Lambrusco might be the quickest way to fall in love with natural wine. Nothing quite matches its delicate, refreshing bubbles and deep complexion, which gives us a range of sanguine tastes, to ripe cherries, then to chalky earth. It's amazingly still one of the underdog narratives around, where just a small handful of producers work the grape to maximize its full potential and craft wines of integrity and longevity. Camillo Donati is one of the strongest torchbearers of this tradition whose philosophy has hardly changed since he embarked on the project in the 90s to incorporate family wisdom and faith into a full artisan production of magical pearly wines.

The main issue with the Lambrusco grape is that it buds too much fruit (it was a favorite of the Romans because of its wild abundance), so Donati has always cut back his organic and biodynamic vines early in the growing season to encourage their growth through a deeply personal process, caring to each stalk according to its own needs. He is able to trust the harvested ripe fruit each Fall season to ferment in the ancestral rhythm this style of bubbly wine requires to be classic and intriguing.

Not only does the Donati family produce a world class Lambrusco, but several other local Emilian wines in the exact same way, all with skin contact, refermented before bottling. Their signatures are concentrated fruit, playful farmy yeast, and a really long finish, making them the perfect match for aged cheese, salumi, really anything under the umami umbrella. One of the meals of my life was eating an entire dinner of starters going from gnocco fritto, funky hard cheeses, plate after plate of salami, mortadella, and lardo, bitter greens with balsamic, and the centerpiece of an old bottle of Donati's Lambrusco. There is nothing wrong with treating the wines like pet-nat if you like but they are really suited best with a memorable meal.

Mac