Momento Mori

Whenever the Momento Mori wines come in I’m instantly taken back to my earliest experiences with natural wine. This sort of pure enthusiasm, nothing but newness all around. Not that these wines were necessarily my entry point, but they hold a very particular energy and freshness that feels sort of transporting in a way, so I look forward to them for the little trip they bring.

Dane Johns, like many of us here, spent time working in coffee before finding a home in wine and he talks about how that helped him build a palate for balance (which is not exactly identical to the diversey wine-coffee-palate-theory, but that's another discussion...). His wines thus far have been made from fruit purchased from organic vineyards around Victoria, mostly Italian varieties but with some French as well. The white wines generally see some maceration and are texturally complex and aromatic (à la Italian orange wines) and the reds are lean and bright, as if meant to be glugged under the Aussie sun.

~ Jackson

Here’s what we have at the moment:

Hazeldean Forest Farm Cider 2020 Just what you want when it’s this hot out. (I am writing this on Wednesday, my apologies if it is no longer that hot; the cider will still rip). From an agro-forestry project founded in the 1970s. $28

Staring at the Sun 2020 Deep orange wine, with lifted floral aromatics and a broad, waxy palate. Don't forget to wear sunglasses. $33

Fistful of Flowers 2020 Moscato Gialla and Vermentino. Citrus pith and potpourri. Very fuzzy. Too easy. $30

Give up the Ghost 2019 Greco di Tufo with a lengthy maceration. For lovers of the grape and those who want to cellar this one for a while and open up a surprise in a year or so. $37

Cardinia Ranges Rosé 2020 Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, co-fermented and pressed quickly. High toned but old-spirited. $37